Mochi Plus Ribbed Sock

Designed and Knit by Laura Andersson

Inspiration: pretty
yarn, fast & soft, cozy socks! Easy and fun!

Materials:

3 – 50 gm balls Mochi
Plus Bossa Nova #562

Crystal Palace Bamboo dpn
needles – sizes US 4 & 5 or size required for gauge.

Large eyed tapestry needle or crochet hook

Gauge: 6.5
sts per inch (26 sts/10 cm) over St st with larger needles

Size: woman’s
small/medium (size 7-9)

Abbreviations:

CO- cast on; dpn- double pointed needles; K- Knit; K2tog – knit 2
sts together; P- Purl; rep – repeat; St st – stockinette stitch; YO – yarn over;
PSSO – pass slip st over; rnd(s) – round(s); st(s)- stitch(es); tog – together.

Note: the
changing colors in Mochi Plus are
formed by dyeing the fiber before spinning and the colors will not appear at the
same spacing in all balls of yarn. For this reason any pairs of socks you make
will be “fraternal” twins and usually not “identical” twins.

Instructions:

With smaller needles, CO 48 st. Join, being careful not to twist.
Place marker.

K 2 rounds K2 P2 rib. Change to larger needles and continue rib until leg is
~6″ from CO-edge. 

Start heel: change to
smaller needles.

K 12, turn; P 24. 

Heel Front: Sl-1, K1,
across. Back: Sl-1, P across. Repeat these two rows until heel is ~2.5 in.

Turn heel:

Sl-1, K13, K2tog, K1, turn. Sl1, P5, p2tog, p1 turn. 

Right Side: Sl-1, K across
to 1 st before “gap”. K2tog, K1, turn. 

Wrong Side: Sl-1, P across
to 1 st before “gap”, P2tog, P1, turn.

Repeat these 2 rows until all heel sts are used up.

End ready for front row. 

Gusset pickups: K across ½
sts and change to new needle.

K across remaining sts; PU & K the slip sts going down the side of heel.

Change to a new needle #2 and K the instep sts;

change to a new needle and K the slip sts going up the other side of heel.

End by knitting across remaining sts.

Gusset decreases:

Dec round:

on ndl 1, K1P1 3 sts, k2tog, K1;

on ndl 2, K2P2 across;

on ndl 3, K1, Sl-1, K1, psso, and work in K1P1 rib.

Plain round: knit with no
decreases across all 3 needles- Ndls 1 & 3 are K1P1 rib; Ndl 2 is K2P2 rib.

When you have returned to the starting 48 sts, continue the
foot in ribbing until the sock foot is ~1.75″ from length of longest toe.

Now begin toe decreases.

Dec rnd:

Needle 1, K to last 3 sts; K2tog, K1. 

Needle 2, K1, Slip1, K1, PSSO, K to last 3 sts; K2tog, K1. 

Needle 3: K1, Slip 1, K1,
PSSO, and K to end. Plain rnd: K all sts.

You will alternate Dec rnd and Plain rnd until 8 sts remain.

Toe closure:

cut the yarn, leaving an ~8 in end. With a crochet hook, pull the yarn through
the sts one at a time, dropping each off the needle. Pull tightly to close; tuck
end inside.

Finishing: Work
in all ends.

Try a crochet hook for this – no need to thread needle & this is faster.

Laura is the editor (and author-designer) of Friendly Socks, Vol.1, Friendly Socks, Vol 2: A-Z; a 3rd set Friendly Socks, Vol. 3, 50 Socks – 50 States, is due Fall 2009. Information about these books can be found at http://siriusknitting.blogspot.com or www.siriusknitting.com .

Laura is the owner of Sirius Knitting Publications and can be reached at
drlaura -at- siriusknitting.com (change the -at- to @ to send email, we do this
to help drlaura avoid spam).

copyright 2009 Crystal Palace Yarns/Straw Into Gold, Inc. - YarnBird’s Use By Permission -We are happy to share this free knitting pattern with knitters. The pattern may be used for non-commercial personal or knitting guild use. It is not to be used in any publication in print nor should it be reproduced in electronic/digital format or elsewhere on the Web without permission. Knitting shops carrying CP Yarns Mochi Plus are welcome to print and share this pattern with customers of our yarns.

Kimono Vest

I love this very simple Kimono‐style vest because it is both horizontal and vertical at the same time. Horizontal

because it is knit from side‐to‐side. Vertical because the pattern which would normally be horizontal gets turned

on its side so it is vertical. Cascade 220 Superwash Quatro is perfect for this garment.

Sizes: Extra‐small (Small, medium, large). Directions are written for size extra‐small with changes in parentheses.

These sizes refer to bust size, the length can be either short, average, or tall. The only direction that matters for

the length is the number of stitches cast on. The remainder of the directions refer to the size around. The Kimono

in the picture is an extra‐small‐average.

Measurements: Bust 36(39,42,45) inches. Length short – about 24 inches, average – about 28 inches, tall about

31 inches from shoulder to mid‐thigh. Feel free to make the garment shorter or longer by casting on less or more

stitches.

Materials: 5(6,6,7) balls of Cascade 220 Superwash Quatro,

Kimono in picture is color #1955.

Purchase an extra ball if you plan to make the vest extra long.

Size 7 needles or Size Required to Obtain Gauge.

The body and bottom border can be worked on straight needles, the sleeve caps require a 16” circular and the

final border requires a 29‐36” circular. One 1‐1/2 to 2 inch button.

Gauge: 5 sts per inch in stockinette stitch. Cascade 220 Superwash looks best at a somewhat tight gauge so I

made mine at 5 stitches to the inch. HOWEVER, because the Kimono is knit side‐to‐side, the rows per inch gauge

(which is 1‐1/2 inches per pattern repeat) is more important than the stitches per inch gauge. Be sure that the

row gauge is correct. Come as close as you can to the 5 stitches per inch and adjust the number of stitches cast

on if you need to in order to obtain the desired length.

Note: Remember, you are working sideways. The cast on edge is the right side edge of the front running from

neck to mid‐thigh and the bound off edge is the left side edge of the front. The whole body is worked in one

piece with slits for the armholes and then stitches are picked up all around to work the borders.

Pattern for body of Kimono: odd number of stitches

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: Knit

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Knit, not a mistake you are putting a purl ridge on the right side

Row 9: Knit

Row 10: P1, *YO, P2tog, rep. from * across row

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Knit, see note on row 8

Repeat rows 1‐12 for pattern.

Pattern for Borders (double seed stitch): even number of stitches

Rows 1 and 2: K1, P1

Rows 3 and 4: P1, K1

Directions Page 2

Directions:

Cast on 109(125, 131) stitches for a mid‐thigh length in short, average, tall at 5 stitches per inch gauge. Feel free

to make it shorter or longer, or to correct number if your gauge is not quite 5 stitches per inch. Just be sure to

have an odd number of stitches. Remember that the border will add 3‐3‐1/2 inches.

Work in pattern starting on row 1(7,1, 7). Repeat pattern through row 12 4(4,5,5) times. Work rows 1 and 2 of

pattern. Next row (pattern row 3), bind off 40(40,45,45) stitches at beginning of row, finish row maintaining pattern.

You have completed the right front. Next row (pattern row 4), work in pattern to end of row. Cable cast on

40(40,45,45) stitches. You have now created the first armhole and begun the back. Continue in pattern until you

have completed row 12 of the pattern 12(13, 14, 15) times from the armhole. Work rows 1‐4 of pattern. Make

another armhole by binding off on next row and casting back on on row after that. Now work left front to same

size as right ending on pattern row 6(2,6,2) and bind off.

Sew shoulders: First gather the front shoulders in about one inch and then sew front shoulders to back, leaving a

reasonable gap for the back of the neck. The gathering creates a slightly vee’d neckline.

Borders: For the sleeves, really just caps, use a 16” circular needle. With right side facing, pick up one stitch in

each bound off or cast on stitch around armhole, place marker and join in round and work in double seed st. for 2

‐3 inches or however long you want the sleeve cap. Bind off loosely.

The border around the fronts and neck and bottom is worked in 2 parts (the bottom is one piece and the first

front around neck and down other front is the second). Work the bottom border first. With the right side facing,

pick up 8 sts for each repeat of the pattern on the bottom edge, 5 stitches in the stockinette section and 3 in the

mesh ridge. Be sure you have an even number of stitches. Work double seed stitch for 3(3,3‐1/4,3‐1/2) inches.

Now work the edge and neck border. With right side facing, pick up 15(15,17,18) stitches in bottom border, one

stitch for each bound off or cast on stitch on the front edges and again 8 for each pattern repeat across neck and

ending with another 15(15,17,18) stitches on other side of bottom border. Again, be sure you have an even number

of stitches. Work in double seed stitch for 2 inches of the border, make one single 3‐stitch buttonhole approximately

across from the bottom of the armhole by binding off 3 stitches on the first row and casting back on

3 stitches on top of the bound off stitches on the next row. Complete border to same length as bottom border.

Bind off nice and loosely.

Finishing: Weave in ends. Sew button opposite buttonhole.

© Cascade Yarns – YarnBirds’ use, by permission.

Kids Socks

To Fit: Infant (age 2, 4, 6, yrs. Shown: sizes 6, 4, & 2. 
Materials: 1 -100 ball of Encore Worsted. Shown in colors #1317, #7135, &#9623. 
Needles: US 5 double pointed needles, or size necessary to obtain given gauge. 
Gauge: 5½ sts = 1” on a US 5 needle. 

Note: When slipping stitches, always slip as if to purl, except for the SKP. 
SKP = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, slip a second stitch as if to purl, then
knit the 2 stitches together. 

CUFF: 
With one needle, cast on 24 (28, 32, 36, 40) sts. Divide evenly onto 3
needles. Being careful not to twist the sts, join and work in the round as
follows: (K2, P2) around for 3 (3½, 4, 4½, 5)”. Knit 2 (2, 3, 3, 3)
rounds. 
DIVIDE FOR HEEL: 
Transfer sts around so that there are 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) sts on the first
needle, and 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts on each of the other two needles. Work back
and forth across the first needle ONLY as follows: 
Row1: (Slip 1, K1), repeat across. 
Row 2: Slip the first st, PURL ACROSS ALL THE REMAINING STS. Repeat these 2
rows for 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) rows total, then work row 1 once more. The heel
will be 13 (15, 17, 19, 21) rows long. 
TURN HEEL: 
Row 1: Purl 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) sts, p2tog, p1, TURN. 
Row 2: Slip 1, k5, k2tog, k1, TURN. 
Row 3: Slip 1, purl to 1 st before the last turn (you’ll see a small gap
where the last turn was), p2tog, p1, TURN. 
Row 4: Slip 1, knit to 1 st before the last turn (look for the gap), k2tog,
k1, TURN. 
Repeat rows 3 & 4 until all sts at the ends are used up, ending with a
knit row. There will be 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) sts left. 
GUSSET: 
Continuing to work on the same needle, pick up and knit 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts
along the side of the heel (needle 1). Using a new needle, knit across the sts
on the next 2 needles (needle 2). Using a new needle, pick up and knit 7 (8,
9, 10, 11) sts along the other side of the heel, and continue knitting to the
center of the heel sts [4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts] (needle 3). There should now be 11
(13, 14, 16, 17) sts on needles 1 & 3, and 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) sts on
needle 2. The center of the heel is the beginning of the round; needle 2
contains the instep sts. Begin decreasing as follows: 
Round 1: Knit. 
Round 2: Knit to within 3 sts of the end of the first needle, k2tog, k1. Work
across second needle in st st. On third needle, k1, SKP, knit to end. Repeat
rounds 1 & 2 until there are 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts left on both needles 1
& 3. Needle 2 will remain at 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) sts since no decreases
take place there. You will now be back to the original # of sts [24 (28, 32,
36, 40)]. Begin to work even again, until length from back of heel is 3 (3½,
4½, 5, 5½)”, OR 1 (1, 1½, 1½ , 1½)” less than desired length of
finished sock. At this point you can slip the sock on to see the length. Only
the toenails should stick out. 
TOE SHAPING: Rearrange the sts on the needles, if necessary, so that there are
now 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts on each of needles 1 & 3, and 12 (14, 16, 18, 20)
sts on needle 2. The beginning of the round is still at the center back of
heel. Begin decreasing as follows: 
Round 1: On needle 1: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On needle 2: K1, SKP,
knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On needle 3: K1, SKP, knit to end (center of
heel). 
Round 2: Knit. 
Repeat rounds 1 & 2 until there are 12 (16, 16, 20, 20) sts left [3 (4, 4,
5, 5) sts on needles 1 & 3, and 6 (8, 8, 10, 10) sts on needle 2]. 
KITCHNER STITCH: Continuing to knit with needle 3, knit to the end of needle
1. There are now only 2 needles in use: 6 (8, 8, 10, 10) sts on each. Cut the
yarn, leaving 18”. Thread it onto a blunt needle. Hold the 2 needles
parallel, you will now have a front needle and a back needle. Always keep the
yarn beneath the needle as you work. 
Step 1: Go into the first st on the front needle as if to knit, pull the st
off the needle. 
Step 2: Go into the second st on the front needle as if to purl, leave st on
the needle. 
Step 3: Go into the first st on the back needle as if to purl, pull the st off
of the needle. 
Step 4: Go into the second st on the back needle as if to knit, leave the st
on the needle. 
Now you have 4 new sts to work with. Repeat steps 1 – 4 until all sts are
woven. Anchor on inside, weave in ends. 
Make a second sock; counting rows to make sure it is the same length. 

©2006 Plymouth Yarn Company. Designed by JoAnne Turcotte. All rights
reserved. 

BABY ALPACA GRANDE

 
Eyelet Cowl 

Materials: 1- 100g hank- Baby Alpaca Grande. Shown in Hand Dye colorway 
Size: About 22(25)” around, about 11 (9)” long. 
Gauge: 12 sts = 4” using size US 11 needles over st st. 
Needles: US 11- 16" circular, 1 larger needle (13 or 15) for bind off
only; 1 stitch marker. 

Cowl: 
With the 16” circular needle, loosely cast on 51 (61) sts. Place marker and
join in the round, taking care not to twist the sts. 
Round 1: K1, *(yo, k2tog); repeat from * around. 
Round 2: Knit. 
Repeat rounds 1 & 2 until almost out of yarn, ending with a round 2 and
leaving enough yarn for a loose bond off. Bind off loosely knitwise using a
larger needle. Length will be about 11 (9)”. 
Weave in all ends. 

©2009 Plymouth Yarn Co. – YarnBirds’ use, by permission.

moPlus Stole Full

moPlus Stole Wide

Designed & Knit by Barbara Breiter

This beautiful lace shawl is knit in a wonderfully soft, slow striping Mochi Plus yarn. The rectangle design means no shaping so the simple lace pattern is easy to work and it is knit in the lengthwise direction.

Sizes:
Prior to blocking: 67″ wide x 20″ long
After blocking: 70″ wide x 22″ long

Gauge:
3.5 sts=1″ in St st

Materials:
Crystal Palace Bamboo 35″ Circular Size 11 US (8 mm)
8-50 gr balls Crystal Palace Yarns Mochi Plus #553 Violets Rainbow

Instructions
CO 238 sts.
K 2 rows, slipping first st of every row.
Begin pattern Rows 1-12 below, slipping first st, k the next two sts, work pattern to last 3 sts, k3 every row.
Row 1 (WS) and all WS Rows: Purl.
Row 2: K2tog, *k5, yo, k1, yo, k2, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
Row 4: K2tog, *k4, yo, k3, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
Row 6: K2tog, *k3, yo, k5, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
Row 8: K2tog, *k2, yo, k1, yo, k5, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
Row 10: K2tog, *k1, yo, k3, yo, k4, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.
Row 12: K2tog, * yo, k5, yo, k3, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end last repeat ssk instead of sl 1, k2tog, psso.

Rep Rows 1-12 6 more times; stole should measure about 20″ long.
P 2 rows.
BO knitwise loosely.
Block.

Designed by Barbara Breiter – visit her site for many more patterns - www.knitabit.net

copyright 2009 Crystal Palace Yarns/Straw Into Gold, Inc. – We are happy to share this free knitting pattern with knitters. The pattern may be used for non-commercial personal or knitting guild use. It is not to be used in any publication in print nor should it be reproduced in electronic/digital format or elsewhere on the Web without permission. Knitting shops carrying CP Yarns Mochi Plus are welcome to print and share this pattern with customers of our yarns. YarnBird’s use By Permission.

MoPlus Beret Left View

MoPlus Beret Top View

Designed & Knit by Gail Tanquary

Materials:

2 – 50 gm balls Crystal Palace Mochi Plus, ‘autumn rainbow‘#557
Crystal Palace Bamboo Circular Needles: Sizes 26″ – size 10 & 16″ – size 7
Crochet Hook size H
Stitch marker

Two sizes: teen/small adult and regular adult

Gauge: 16 sts = 4” in Stockinette St

Terms & Abbreviations
Provisional Cast On: With size H crochet hook and contrasting color yarn, ch 50 loosely. Turn the chain so the bumpy side is facing and pick up 1 st in each bump. [Note that you skip the first 5 bumps at each end of the crocheted chain.]
Tip: Put “Provisional Cast On” in Google to find various tutorials if you are unclear on this concept.
WT: work to designated stitch, sl next st from left to right needle as to purl, bring yarn to front, sl st back to left needle, turn and bring yarn forward ready to purl.
Wyif: with yarn in front

Instructions
Using the Provisional Cast on, pick up and knit 40 sts, one in ea bump, starting with the 5th ch and ending with 5 ch left at end.

1 – (wrong side) Knit to last 3 sts, place marker, K2, sl 1 wyif.
2 - K to within 3 sts of end, WT.
3 - and all wrong-side rows: Purl to last 3 sts, K2, sl 1 wyif.
4 - K to within 3 sts of gap created by last turn, WT.
5 - Purl to marker, K2, sl 1 wyif. 6-17 (19)
Rep rows 4 and 5 until there are 8 (9) groups of 2 sts with gaps between.
End by working a purl row.
18 (20) – K 1 row, slipping needle under wrap and knitting it together with the wrapped st.
19 (21) – Knit
20 (22) – Knit
21 (23) – Knit

Repeat rows 2-21 (23) seven times more, with 2 garter ridges separating the sections, but end last repeat by working row 19 (21), having only one garter ridge at end.
Do not bind off.

Pull out chain from provisional cast on and sl the live sts onto the 16” circular needle. Place right sides together and work 3-needle bind off to join.

With size 7 – 16” circular needle, pick up and K one st in each slipped st along edge of hat 80 (88) sts.
Work in K1-P1 ribbing for 1.25”.
Bind off loosely in rib pattern using tip of larger needle to keep bind off loose.

Designed and Knit by Gail Tanquary for Crystal Palace Yarns
Visit Gail’s shop, Alameda Yarn Co., Alameda, CA if you are in the East Bay area.

copyright 2009 Crystal Palace Yarns/Straw Into Gold, Inc. – We are happy to share this free knitting pattern with knitters. The pattern may be used for non-commercial personal or knitting guild use. It is not to be used in any publication in print nor should it be reproduced in electronic/digital format or elsewhere on the Web without permission. Knitting shops carrying CP Yarns Mochi Plus are welcome to print and share this pattern with customers of our yarns. YarnBird’s use By Permission.

Double Yarn Ribbed Scarf

MMo107bs Yarn

MMo107b Yarn Top View

A Free Scarf Pattern that uses only 2 balls of Mini Mochi
This scarf is soft and light and knits quickly in doubled yarn. This stitch has a rib look, but lies flat and more open than a plain 3/3 rib.

Materials:
2 balls Crystal Palace Mini Mochi (50 grams/195 yards)
(sample shown was knit in color #107 ‘autumn rainbow’)
Crystal Palace Bamboo Size 8 needles or size needed to obtain desired fabric.

Finished size: approx. 4.5” X 50” (or use 1 more ball for a longer scarf)
[Note: Yarn is held doubled throughout, colors "meet" at random.]

Abbreviations:
k – knit, p – purl

Instructions:
Cast on 30 stitches loosely. Knit 2 rows
Work in Tripled Rib Stitch.

Beaded Rib Stitch:
Row 1: *K3, P3*, repeat across row to end
Row 2: *K1, P1*, repeat across row to end
Repeat these 2 rows until almost out of yarn.
End with a Row 2.
K 2 more rows.
Bind off loosely.

Wet scarf in warm water, roll in big towel and lay flat to dry. Block flat at approx. 4.5 inches width or block longer and narrower as desired.

Designed & Knit by Susan Druding

Below shows a ball of Mini Mochi col. #107 “Autume Rainbow” used to knit this scarf.

Pattern Copyright 2009 Crystal Palace Yarns/Straw Into Gold, Inc. – We are happy to share this  pattern with knitters. The pattern may be used for non-commercial personal or knitting guild use. It is not to be used in any publication in print nor should it be reproduced in electronic/digital format without permission. Knitting shops carrying CPY Yarns Mini Mochi are welcome to print and share this pattern with customers of our yarns. YarnBird’s use By Permission.

Flame Wrister Fingerless Mitten

Flame Wrister On Palm

Matching Scarf Pattern, Click here.

Designed and Knit by Adrienne Fong For Crystal Palace Yarns

There is a matching Jasmine lace scarf pattern here.

Soft, warm fingerless mitts for the princess in your life, even if the princess is YOU! Pattern coming for matching Jasmine Scarf and socks.

Materials:

1 or 2 50 gr balls Mini-Mochi (195 yds/50 gm) [see Notes below]
Crystal Palace Bamboo DPN US 1.5 (2.5mm) needles or size needed to obtain gauge
Stitch markers
Cable needle
Waste yarn
Tapestry needle

Finished Size: 6″ wrist circumference (blocked and relaxed)

Gauge: 8 sts/12 rows per inch in stockinette stitch (blocked and relaxed) 8.5 sts/inch in stockinette (unblocked)

Notes:
= It is possible to knit both mitts with one ball of Mini-Mochi if you don’t mind fraternal color changes in the mitts.
= It might be possible to knit identical mitts from one ball of Mini-Mochi if you knit the second mitt from the opposite end of the ball and can find the color repeat. Otherwise, buy an extra ball; just in case.
= For a larger mitt, it is recommended that you go up one needle size.

Abbreviations:

C6B (Cable 3 over 3, right): Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle, hold in back, k3 from LHN, then k3 from cable needle; C6F (Cable 3 over 3, left) : Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle, hold in front, k3 from LHN, then k3 from cable needle; Cont: continue; k3tog: knit 3 together (hint: knit 2 together, slip stitch back to LNH, slip 2nd st over first st); k3tog, tbl: knit 3 together through back loops (hint: slip 1, as if to knit, knit 2 together through back loop, pass slipped stitch over); KLL (knit left loop): Insert left needle into left loop of stitch two rows below last completed stitch. Knit this stitch through the back loop; KRL (knit right loop): Insert right needle into right loop of stitch just below next stitch; place it onto left needle and knit it; then knit the stitch on needle; LT (left twist): slip 1 to Cable Needle (CN), hold in front, k1 tbl, k1 tbl from CN; LTp ( left twist, purl): slip 1 to CN hold in front, p1, k1 tbl from CN; PM: Place marker; RTp (right twist, purl): slip 1 to CN, hold in back, k1 tbl, p1 from CN; st(s): stitch(es); St st: Stockinette stitch; tbl: through back loop; yo: yarn-over

Lace Pattern:

Round 1: p2, LT, p2, k3, k3tog, yo, k1, yo, p1, k1tbl, p1, yo, k1, yo, k3tog tbl, k3, p2, LT, p2.
Round 2: p2, k2 tbl, p2, k7, p1, k1 tbl, p1, k7, p2, k2 tlb, p2.
Round 3: p1, RTp, LTp, p1, k2, k3tog, yo, k1, yo, k1, p1, k1 tbl, p1, k1, yo, k1, yo, k3tog tbl, k2, p1, RTp, LTp, p1.
Round 4: p1, k1 tbl, p2, k1 tbl, p1, k7, p1, k1 tbl, p1, k7, p1, k1 tbl, p2, k1 tbl, p1.
Round 5: p1, LTp, RTp, p1, k1, k3tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, p1, k1 tbl, p1, k2, yo, k1, yo k3tog tbl, k1, p1, LTp, RTp, p1.
Round 6: p2, k2 tbl, p2, k7, p1, k1 tbl, p1, k7, p2, k2 tbl, p2.
Round 7: p2, LT, p2, k3tog, yo, k1, yo, k3, p1, k1 tbl, p1, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3tog tbl, p2, LT, p2.
Round 8: p2, k2 tbl, p2, k7, p1, k1 tbl, p1, k7,p2, k2 tbl, p2.
Round 9: p1, RTp, LTp, p1, k7, p1, k1 tbl, p1, k7, p1, RTp, LTp, p1.
Round 10: p1, k1 tbl, p2, k1 tbl, p1, k7, p1, k1 tbl, p1, k7, p1, k1 tbl, p2, k1 tbl, p1.
Round 11: p1, LTp, RTp, p1, C6B, k1, p1, k1 tbl, p1, k1, C6F, p1, LTp, RTp, p1.
Round 12: p2, k2 tbl, p2, k7, p1, k1tbl, p1, k7, p2, k2 tbl, p2.
Repeat Rounds 1-12 for pattern.

Diamond Pattern:

Round 1: p2, LT, p2.
Round 2: p2, k2tbl, p2.
Round 3: p1, RTp, LTp, p1.
Round 4: p1, k1tbl, p2, k1tbl, p1.
Round 5: p1, LTp, RTp, p1.
Round 6: p2, k2tbl, p2.
Repeat Rounds 1-6 for pattern

This Pattern Continues on the Next Post – Click Here

Flame Wrister Top

Mini Mochi Yarn

Flame Wrister Palm

Cuff: Loosely cast on 58 sts. Join into round, being careful not to twist sts. Work 8 rounds ribbing as follows:
Top of Mitt ribbing (29 sts): [p2, k2] twice, [p1, k1, p1, k2] 3 times, p2, k2, p2. PM to indicate start of palm.

Palm ribbing (29 sts): [k2, p2] 3 times, k2, p1, k2, [p2, k2] 3 times. PM to indicate start of top of mitt.

Wrist:

Top of Mitt: work rounds 1-12 of lace pattern three times.
Palm: [k2, p2, k2, work diamond pattern over 6 sts, k2, p1, k2, work diamond pattern over 6 sts, k2, p2, k2] for a total of 3 repeats of the diamond pattern. Work round 1 of diamond pattern once more. Work Palm ribbing as for cuff for 7 rounds. Then work palm in St st.
Thumb gusset: While working the increases for the thumb, cont working the top of the mitts in the lace pattern as established. The thumb gussets will be worked on the palm side of the mitt.

Note: The thumb gusset is worked differently for the right and left hand mitts.

Work increases as follows:

Right Hand mitt: k6, PM to indicate start of thumb, k1, KLL, k1, KRL, k1, PM to indicate end of thumb, k20. (There are 5 sts between (markers)
Left Hand mitt: k20, PM to indicate start of thumb, k1, KLL, k1, KRL, k1, PM to indicate end of thumb, k6. (There are 5 sts between markers)
Knit 2 rounds even while keeping top of mitt in lace pattern.
Work increases between markers for both mitts as follows:
Round 1 (increase round): Knit to first thumb marker, k1, KLL, knit to one st before second thumb marker, KRL, k1. knit to end of round.
Rounds 2-3: knit across

Repeat rounds 1-3 until you have 21 sts between markers; ending on round 3 of thumb gusset.
Place 21 thumb sts on waste yarn.

Hand:

Top of Mitt: Cont working lace pattern as established.
Palm-Right hand: k6, cast on 4 sts, k20. On next round, k9, k2tog, k19. 29 palm sts
Palm-Left hand: k20, cast on 4 sts, k6. On next round, k23, k2tog, k5. 29 palm sts
Cont working top of mitt in lace pattern as established and palm in St st for a total of 6 lace pattern repeats. Work rounds 1-8 of lace pattern once more on top of mitt, St st on palm.
Set up for Top Ribbing
Top of Mitt: Work rounds 9-12 of lace pattern once. (Total of 7 lace pattern repeats).
Palm: [k2, p2] 3 times, k2, p1, k2, [p2, k2] 3 times
Then work one round as follows:
Top of mitt: p2, LT, p2, [k2, p1, k1, p1] 3 times, k2, p2, LT, p2.
Palm: [k2, p2] 3 times, k2, p1, k2, [p2, k2] 3 times
Top Ribbing: Work 5 rounds of ribbing as follows:
Top of Mitt: [p2, k2] twice, [p1, k1, p1, k2] 3 times, p2, k2, p2
Palm: [k2, p2] 3 times, k2, p1, k2, [p2, k2] 3 times
Bind off loosely by purling.
Finishing the Thumb:
Carefully remove waste yarn and transfer thumb sts to needle. Attach yarn and knit 21 sts. Pick up and k3 sts in the cast-on row. 24 sts.
Knit 8 rounds in St st. Then knit 4 rounds of k1p1 ribbing. Bind off loosely by purling.

Weave in all ends.

Thanks to Adrienne Fong for a beautiful pattern!

Chart:

Fingerless Chart for Jasmine Scarf

Fingerless Chart Legend for Jasmine Scarf

copyright 2009 Crystal Palace Yarns/Straw Into Gold, Inc. – We are happy to share this pattern with knitters. The pattern may be used for non-commercial personal or knitting guild use. It is not to be used in any publication in print nor should it be reproduced in electronic/digital format without permission. Knitting Shops carrying Crystal Palace Yarns Mini Mochi are welcome to use this free pattern for their customers. YarnBird’s use By Permission.

Back to Pattern Part 1 Post – Click Here

Hat Spiral Rib

Hat Spiral Rib - Top View

Designed and Knit by Laura Andersson, CPY “Sock Guru” and Sirius Knitting Publications For Crystal Palace Yarns

Matching Mittens Pattern, Click here.

Uses Just One Ball of Mini Mochi

Materials:
1 – 50g ball of  Crystal Palace Yarns Mini Mochi (shown in color 101 – ‘Intense’)
Inspiration: Rainbows make me smile – a promise of Joy.

Materials: 
Yarn: Crystal Palace Mini-Mochi, 1 ball of #101, Intense Rainbow.
Crystal Palace Bamboo Circular Needle size 6; & DPN-double-pointed needles size 6 for hat crown(or size required for gauge).
Large eyed tapestry needle or crochet hook

Gauge: 6 sts per inch (24 sts/10 cm) and 9 rows per inch, over St st using larger needles.

Size: woman’s/man’s large (22.5 in circumference)

Abbreviations: beg- beginning; CO- cast on; dpn- double pointed needles; K- Knit; K2tog – knit 2 sts together; ndl- needle; P- Purl; PM- place maker; rep – repeat; sl1- slip one; St st – stockinette stitch; YO – yarn over; PSSO – pass slip st over; rnd(s) – round(s); st(s)- stitch(es); tog – together. Inc 1 by Kf/Kb of same st.

Instructions:
Cast on 136 sts. Join, being careful not to twist. PM to mark end/beginning of rnd.

Patterns:
1. K 2 rnds; P 3 rnds. Repeat 6 times.
2. Work one rnd K2P2 rib; M1, placing on left needle. Turn cap inside out, and work K2P2 rib. When you come to the last two sts (including the M1) knit together to close hole from turning.
Work K2P2 rib for ¾ in.
3. Work P2K2 rib for ¾ in.
4. Work ¾ in double moss: *(K2P2 one rnd, P2K2 next rnd), repeat for ¾ in.
5. Mini-lace:
a) *(K1, YO, K2tog); repeat around. K1 rnd.
b) *(K2tog, YO, K1); repeat around. K1 rnd.
c) *(YO, K1, K2tog); repeat around. K1 rnd.
Repeat these 6 rnds once more.
6. *(K3, P1), around for ¾ in.
When hat is ~6 in. from cast on edge (or desired length), begin crown pattern.

Crown: change to dpn when it becomes difficult to work with circs
Dec rnd 1: *(P6, K2tog), around. *(P6, K1) around for 4 rnds.
Dec rnd 2: *(P5, K2tog), around. *(P5, K1) around for 4 rnds.
Dec rnd 3: *(P4, K2tog), around. *(P4, K1) around for 4 rnds.
Dec rnd 4: *(P3, K2tog), around. *(P3, K1) around for 3 rnds.
Dec rnd 5: *(P2, K2tog) around. *(P2, K2tog) around for 2 rnd.
Dec rnd 6: *(P1, K2tog) around. *(P1K1) around.
Now P2tog until only ~4 sts remain.
Cut yarn leaving an ~8 in end.

Finishing: With crochet hook, pull yarn through each of rem sts, and drop off needle one at a time. Pull tautly and bring end into inside.

Try a crochet hook for this – no need to thread needle & is very fast.

copyright 2009 Crystal Palace Yarns/Straw Into Gold, Inc. – We are happy to share this free knitting pattern with knitters. The pattern may be used for non-commercial personal or knitting guild use. It is not to be used in any publication in print nor should it be reproduced in electronic/digital format without permission. Knitting shops carrying CP Yarns Mini Mochi are welcome to print and share this pattern with customers of our yarns. Yarnbird’s use By Permission.

Mini-Mochi Rainbow Hat Designed and Knit by Laura Andersson, Ph.D (with thanks to Cathy Campbell for her inspiring Rainbow mittens!) Laura is the editor (and author-designer) of the “Friendly Socks” Books. The newest, 50 Socks – 50 States is scheduled for a Summer ’09 release. Information about these books can be found athttp://siriusknitting.blogspot.com or www.siriusknitting.com

Laura is the owner of Sirius Knitting Publications and can be reached at
drlaura -at- siriusknitting.com (change the -at- to @ to send email, we do this to help drlaura avoid spam).